After Beaufort, NC, we anchored out a couple of nights (Snode Creek and Pungo River) and then went to Alligator Marina the night before crossing the Albemarle Sound. Previous to this Sound, our “biggest water” had been in Charleston, SC. THIS was going to be bigger and we had heard plenty of warnings about it. Fortunately, weather conditions were to be good, so on the morning of April 25, we headed out. Our intentions had originally been to do what’s referred to as the Albemarle Loop, which is going around the Sound and stopping at several places along the coastline, but since we were already behind many days, we decided to pass on it.
The water was slightly choppy, but not so bad. We were lucky that the winds and waves were running with us, and not against us. When we were about midway, we thought we were seeing things in the water. Yes, we were — crab pots in the middle of the Sound! The nemesis of boaters! We made our way through a field of them and then were clear for awhile. As we approached a turn on the far coastline, there they were again. They were lined up on each side of the channel. Oh well, at least these had some order to them. They sort of led us into Elizabeth City. We had survived the crossing. We learned later, that those who came a day later had a much different experience. What a difference a day makes!
Elizabeth CIty has several free docks, and as we approached, other Loopers hailed us and assisted us in finding a slip and docking. There was a waterfront park in front of the boat slips and several boaters had found seats at the picnic tables and benches. They were having a grand time visiting. We Americans were outnumbered by the many Canadians who were making their way home, but there were good international relations! Later that evening — everyone was still in the park — we struck up a conversation with a couple who was walking by and looking at the boats. Turns out that they are intending to do the Loop in a couple of years, so they were picking up lots of info. An hour after they left, they returned with fresh strawberry shortcake for everyone. Those are the wonderful kinds of people we are meeting.
There is a wonderful tradition here of welcoming ladies on boats with a rose.
Slips are odd shaped and of various sizes, but FREE. Good to have help when docking.
Stayed in Elizabeth City for three days due to some rainy weather and wanting to go to Church. We left Sunday and started the winding trail to the Dismal Swamp. We saw a Looper boat close behind us and radioed them to please pass us. We had an ulterior motive. They were bigger than us with a deeper draft. We wanted to FOLLOW them through the sometimes shallow waters of the Swamp so that we would have early warning. Kind of sneaky, huh?
Approaching our first lock – yes, we were nervous.
To enter the Swamp, we had to go through our first lock — we were Virgin Lockers! The Lock Master was so helpful and we got through without a hitch. Then into the Swamp! In 1763, George Washington first proposed draining the swamp, harvesting the timber and then farming the land. That was done for while, but then it also became a waterway used for transporting goods. Today it is used by recreational boaters — when they can get through it. The day was perfect — sunshine and slight breezes. The waterway is not very wide, so it’s sort of like going through a tunnel of trees. They were a beautiful spring green color and the sunlight created beautiful depth in the shadow of the leaves. It was so quiet as we passed. There were only three boats, so we only heard the purr of the boat motors as we slowly cruised. OK, we also heard the low water alarm more than a few times, but you get the idea. It was sort of like an outdoor cathedral. We only went part way the first day. We tied up at the wall of the Great Dismal Swamp Visitor Center and took the pedestrian bridge across to the State Park. They had a great visitor center and museum, and some hiking trails which we walked to stretch our legs. Never saw any “wild life” that supposedly lives in the Swamp, but we did see the remains of a still which used to cook up some Moon Shine!
Following Balahula into the South Mills Lock.
Kathy holding the bow line on our first lock. The is a Corps of Engineer lock, we must wear PFD’s and hold the line to secure the boat as we were “locked up.”
Vitamin Sea in the Great Dismal Swamp.
Kathy driving through the Swamp. Notice the wall of trees on both sides.
Kathy on the pedestrian bridge to the Great Dismal Swamp State Park. Dock is only long enough for three boats; any more and you have to raft side by side. Balahula is tied in front of Vitamin Sea. We celebrated with champagne as both boats were first time lockers.
The next day we continued our trek through the calm waters. Sill beautiful, but in one section, we could hear and see some cars that passed by on a big highway. It struck me that those people were moving so fast that they couldn’t possibly see the beauty that we were experiencing at 6-7 mph. As we had experienced at the beginning of the Swamp, we also had a lock to take us out of the Swamp at the end of this part of the journey. No longer virgins, we were now experienced lockers. Ha, ha. These were easy compared to what is ahead.
This is the pedestrian bridge to the State Park. The two ends raise hydraulically which allows the center section to float and pivot to the side for boats to pass.
Kendra, the bridge operator and Joe and Barbara on Balahula, and Kathy.
At both ends of the canal there is a lock and a bridge. Both operated by the same person, he locks you through then drives down the road to lift the bridge.
sounds like ya’ll are having a ball.
Love reading about your adventures! Continued happy, safe cruising. Happy May!
Wow. Sounds so exciting. Wonderful pictures and thanks for sharing. Great reading.
Finally a chance to sit down and read your blog. What GREAT adventures you have been having! We keep you in our prayers.
I am enjoying this blog and living a bit of the adventure through your words. Our son played baseball one summer, I think 2002, in Edenton, NC on the Albemarle Sound. We could only see a bit of it at the town center, and it looked quite intimidating for non-boaters like us! Glad your crossing was smooth.